Gates Micro-V Serpentine Belt for 02-06 RSX Base/07-12 RDX

If your RSX Base or RDX is squealing at startup or chirping between 1,000 and 2,000 RPM, your Gates Micro-V serpentine belt is probably the fix. This is a 15-minute job on the K20A3, maybe 25 if it's your first time, and it's one of those maintenance items that's easy to ignore until your alternator stops charging or your A/C quits on a July highway pull.

What This Belt Does and Why Gates

Your serpentine belt drives everything on the accessory side of your engine: alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, and water pump. When the rubber starts cracking and glazing over, you lose grip on those pulleys. That means inconsistent charging, heavy steering feel, and eventual belt failure.

The Gates K070680 is a 7-rib EPDM belt that matches OEM dimensions for the K20A3 in your RSX and the K23A1 in your RDX. EPDM rubber resists surface cracking far better than older neoprene belt compounds, which is why most OEMs switched to it. Gates manufactures belts for factory assembly lines across multiple automakers, so the tolerances and materials here are OE-grade, not aftermarket approximations.

One thing worth knowing: auto parts store computers sometimes cross-reference the wrong belt length for these cars. The K070680 is the correct part. If someone tries to hand you a 5070680 (Dayco equivalent) you're fine, but double-check the rib count and length before you leave the counter.

Specs

Fitment

This belt does not fit the RSX Type-S. The Type-S K20A2 uses a different length belt (Gates K070677). If you're not sure which RSX you have, check your engine cover: the Base says K20A3, the Type-S says K20A2.

What to Know Before You Buy

You need a 14mm wrench or socket with an extension to release the auto-tensioner. A dedicated serpentine belt tool makes it easier (AutoZone loans them for free with a deposit), but it's not required. Turn the tensioner clockwise toward the front of the car to release tension, slip the old belt off the top pulley, then work the rest off. Route the new belt from the bottom up, starting with the crank and A/C pulleys first.

While you're in there, check your tensioner. There's an arrow indicator on the tensioner housing with two reference marks. If the arrow sits outside those marks, your tensioner spring is worn and you'll eat through this new belt prematurely. Replacing the belt without checking the tensioner is the most common reason people end up doing this job twice.

The entire job takes about 15 minutes once you've done it before. No need to jack the car, remove motor mounts, or pull fender liners. Everything is accessible from the engine bay if you turn the steering wheel all the way to the right for clearance.